real life test kitchen: pork spareribs
Argentina is known for its beef, of course, but in my experience the country’s pork is also amazing. Last night I tried to recreate the pork spareribs I ordered a couple of weeks ago at Bar Uriarte (shown above), a large and stylish but still cozy-feeling restaurant in Buenos Aires. The ridiculously tender meat was served smothered in ginger and Dijon mustard and topped with caramelized onions.
I couldn’t find a similar recipe, so I threw caution to the wind and decided to wing it. After reading through several sets of directions, I deduced that I should marinate my 2 pounds of meat (bought at Staubitz on Court Street in Brooklyn) for several hours and then cook it for just under two.
In a bowl, I mixed together rosemary, tarragon, and basil, a liberal sprinkling of pepper and salt, two minced garlic cloves, two tablespoons fresh ginger, and two tablespoons of Dijon-horseradish mustard, which I then rubbed on both sides of the ribs. There was some disagreement in the recipes as to which side to place facing up before roasting, so I asked my friend L., who is a food editor. She recommended fat/meat side up so that the “fat melts and bastes the meat below.” So I cooked fat side up for 45 minutes, then flipped (basting now and then with a buttery mustard sauce) and roasted for an hour more.
The verdict? I may have overcooked a bit—my ribs were definitely not as tender as the heart-melting version courtesy of Bar Uriarte. Also, my friend K. pointed out that the seasonings were subtle—too subtle, really. I wonder if part of the reason for the satisfyingly fatty flavor of the restaurant version was that they raise their pigs to be fattier in Argentina. According to the Joy of Cooking, pigs in the U.S. have been bred over the years to be leaner and leaner, in response to the public’s diet concerns. Overall, though, the spareribs were fairly rich and juicy, and the topping of caramelized onions gave them a softly sweet kick. And of course a dollop of sour cream (always tastes good) was in order. But I’d love to know if anyone has any helpful pork-cooking tips. This was my first time. — Bunny W.
Photograph by Camille Noe Pagán.
I think you may have undercooked them if they weren’t tender enough. I’ve cooked pork ribs a few times, and the trick seems to be keeping them moist enough while allowing them to cook for as long as possible at relatively low temperature. High fat content helps a lot here. The seasonings and rub will usually get washed off by the fat and juices, so you’ll need to re-apply it just before the meat is finished. Broiling for a couple of minutes before serving will create a sticky coating if you use a thick sauce.