A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of enjoying Omakase at one of the West Coast’s premiere sushi spots. At his tiny West Seattle sushi bar, Mashiko, Chef Hajime Sato is innovating cuisine and helping to preserve our endangered oceans simultaneously. Chef Sato explained to me why he decided to switch over to a fully sustainable seafood menu: his favorite food in the world is unagi, a fresh water eel that is highly endangered, yet is a ubiquitous menu item at sushi restaurants. When he discovered the dire fate of this eel, he decided to give up eating AND serving the fish, declaring, “I don’t want to eat the last one”. He has, however, found phenomenally inventive ways of recreating his favorite flavors sustainably. For “dessert”, Sato-san served us what I dubbed “faux-nagi”, using a sustainably farmed catfish seasoned meticulously to recreate the signature flavor of the eel. It was the best unagi — real or faux — I’d ever had. The menu ranges from the more traditional unagi and california rolls to a unique version of ankimo, substituting black cod liver for over-fished monkfish. If you can’t make the trip to Seattle, there is sustainable sushi available in Portland and San Francisco, or better yet, belly up to your favorite local sushi bar, befriend your Itamae, and start asking them to change their menu! –Megan B.

For more info on sustainable sushi, got to sustainablesushi.net, and for sustainable seafood in general, check out the Monterey Bay Aquarium seafood watch.